Sunday, September 6, 2015

Planning on the fly...............

Wednesday night we had grabbed some information about local places and things to do.  Our only plan was that we had to be at the Portland airport by 8:30 p.m. to meet the rest of the family coming in from Utah.  The rest of the day was ours and we didn't have any plans except another stop at a beach.

Thursday morning we looked over our options and decided that we should head down to Depoe Bay which is a famous whale watching site.  I had considered going there for this trip and wanted to check it out for future reference...and I am always interested in seeing a whale.  I had found an area of covered bridges in one of the booklets we had found the night before but we had decided that it was too far to go.  However, at breakfast Gary said let's do it too so again off we went with our map and some goals............................

The beach--Road's End--

We had to stop to get a picture of this "Sambo's" restaurant.  I worked at Sambo's when I was a teenager in Amarillo, TX.  I didn't even know they still had them anywhere.  (There was concern about their "political correctness" back in the 70's).  This one is located in Lincoln City, OR.
Depoe Bay has some whales who stay almost year around near the mouth of the bay.  We went to a very small visitor's center but no whales in the area.  The best whale watching time is the spring when lots of whales travel north to Alaska.
Another small bridge over the harbor
From Depoe we headed inland crossing between Newport and Corvallis.  All over the place were huge trucks carrying logs to the mill.  Here is the back end of one truck.  You just hope they knew what they were doing when they tied those logs in.
 
As we traveled east I realized that we were going to be traveling in the area where my mom spent some of her growing up years.  I texted my sister to confirm my mother's birthplace and she texted me back "Corvallis" right when we were in that town.  It has changed a lot since the mid-1930s I am sure.  We turned south and traveled through Monroe along the western part of the Willamette Valley where my Owen pioneers settled in the 1800s.  I was disappointed that I couldn't find the Long Tom River on the map because there are stories from both my mom's and my grandfather's lives about that river.  It turns out that we were very close as we traveled south to Cottage Grove, but I didn't know until we got home. 
 
This is one of the disadvantages of planning on the fly.  It would have been great for me to read some of my mom's and grandfather's histories to be able to connect places to events in their lives.  However, sitting at home in Utah planning this trip I don't think we would have even thought to make this side trip so far from Portland.  It was only in the spur of the moment fun of a day together that we would take off and travel to see some more bridges.  (Have I mentioned that I have an awesome husband!)
 
South of Eugene, Oregon, is the small town of Cottage Grove who decided to become famous for its covered bridges.  In a thirty mile loop you can see 6 restored bridges, only one is in current use and another that you can drive across and then turn around and drive back.  It is probably not worth a trip from Utah unless you love bridges and for some reason I do so here they are:
 
 
This was an "artsy" type of town and many of the
buildings had art work on the side.  Here is one of a covered bridge
on a downtown office building.
Centennial bridge:  This was rebuilt in 1996 from timbers from two covered bridges which were being dismantled.
 

The Swinging bridge:  crossing a creek in the city, it has been rebuilt several times to allow school children to cross the creek to go to school. It moves when you walk on it which can be a bit unnerving.
The creek....
 We made it back and forth-
The Chambers Railroad Bridge is the only known covered bridge for a railroad west of the Mississippi.  Although you can see it is very tall, steam trains still had to be modified with shorter stacks to be able to travel safely through the bridge.
It is a very beautiful bridge inside.


On our way to the next bridge we went over a bridge and next to us was this beautiful train bridge.  Even uncovered, bridges are amazing.
 And we saw a flock of wild turkeys in the hills.
This is the Steward Covered Bridge.  Although it no longer connects to a road on the other side you can drive across it and then turn around and come back.  They say that it is a popular place for weddings and you can see it is pretty inside as well.



I loved the red bridge called Mosby Creek Bridge.


 
This is the Dorena Covered Bridge which is the only one that is still in active use.  It goes over the Row River. And yes it is true I ran across this bridge...but that is a story that only Gary can tell.

 This is the bike trail bridge that parallels the Dorena Bridge so I was able to walk out on it and take..
 this side picture of the covered bridge.

It was now 4:00 and we had about 100 miles to go north to get to Portland and meet up with everyone else.  Here is the view out our sunroof.  Perfect fluffy clouds.
Now here occur really the only flaw in our whole trip planning.  I had not made reservations for Thursday night in the Portland area because I wasn't sure exactly where we might want to spend the night.  I thought we could find a place and get checked in before we headed to the airport and then everyone could just head to bed when they arrived.

The first part of the plan worked great.  We arrived into the Portland area around 6 with plenty of time to find a hotel.  I headed us out to the Hillsboro area reasoning that then in the morning we wouldn't have to drive though Portland traffic on our way to the coast.  The one flaw---no hotel rooms in Hillsboro or anywhere.  We finally sat in a hotel lobby at their computer and looked for hotel rooms anywhere near by.  We ended up make a reservation at a hotel in Washington state about 10 miles north east from the airport....and then we crossed our fingers that it was in a safe part of town.

We hopped back into our car and headed to the airport and again cross the Willamette River on a bridge.  This is the view of a couple of other bridges down the river.
 
We grabbed dinner at the airport and then met the family so the rest of our vacation could begin.  Gary and I put about 300 miles on our rental car those first two days.  It was a amazing time to be together and there is no one else I would rather spend my days with driving in a car and seeing the world.
 
Hotel was fine (relief to be in bed safe and sound.)  Let the family adventure begin.................


Ode to Oregon.....

and to bridges...and to my mom, as it turned out---but I get ahead of my story.  The story actually started with trying to think how to celebrate my mother-in-law's 80th birthday.  She didn't want a birthday party at the Church which is sometimes done around here.  We had started traveling somewhere to celebrate her birthday--just the women--since my father-in-law passed away in 2008 so I started to think about nearby trips.  I have fond memories of the Oregon coast and after some searching I found a place on the beach that I thought would be a fun weekend get-away.  The flights were booked along with the house and two rental cars and that was basically the plan.

To celebrate the ending of my class, Gary and I flew out to Oregon on Wednesday morning a day and a half before everyone else came.  The only clear plan we had for our two days was that I wanted to go to Astoria and drive across the bridge over the mouth of the Columbia River between Washington and Oregon and someone had told me there was a nice rest stop on the Washington side where you could get good pictures of the bridge.  I brought a "real" traveling atlas just in case which was a good thing because we didn't always have good cell service and we grabbed our rental car and took off up the road along the Columbia River.

(Historical note:  I grew up in eastern Washington and the Columbia River is one of the memories of my childhood.  A city park we often went to was along its banks and we also traveled along the Oregon side to our Grandma's house in Portland each year.  It always flowed and I didn't know that there were rivers that dried up in the summer until I moved to the panhandle of Texas.  So this was a special moment to be along the river again.)

Even before we were out of Portland, we drove across our first of our many bridges--St. Johns Historical Bridge, I believe it was called.

It crosses over the Willamette River which flows through Portland and connects with the Columbia River.  It is one of 9 bridges which crosses over this river in the area. (and no we didn't cross over every one of them on this trip!)
Docks along the shore of the river
After crossing the bridge, we entered into the green forests of western Oregon.  The difference between the green of Portland and the sands and sagebrush of the Tri-cities is so stark but I have no memory of ever comparing the two places in my mind.  I guess Richland was home and as a child you don't question or evaluate a place based on appearance.  Western Oregon and Washington are beautiful and I was overwhelmed by the greens everywhere.



I had started to fall asleep when Gary woke me up as we approached another bridge.  This one went over the Columbia River at Rainer-Kelso...so for no good reason, we headed over it, made a turn in a logging parking lot and headed back to Oregon.




 And back to the forests of Oregon as we continued our drive to Astoria.
Astoria is a port city and reminds me a little of San Francisco or coastal towns back east.  Houses were built all over the hills of the area.
And here is the Astoria bridge which we came to travel on......The bridge is just over 4 miles long.  Pedestrians are only allowed on the bridge one morning a year.  They close one lane of traffic and have a charity run/walk from the Washington to the Oregon side.  I am not sure that we will make it back to do a walk but it was a fun drive anyway.
The bridge is interesting in that it goes up quite high on the Oregon side.  It is tall enough to allow large ships to go under to reach the Portland ports.

Then the bridge goes down to just over the water line.  Here we see the Washington side with the Columbia River on the right and the mouth of the river meeting the ocean on the left.
On the river side you can see boats out fishing and sightseeing.
The bridge then goes back up on the Washington side to allow the small boats to go from one side to another.
Someone had told me that there was a great rest area about 1/4 mile on the Washington side where you could view the whole bridge.  It was true but my camera couldn't take a picture of the whole bridge at one time.  Four miles is a lot of bridge!
View of the Washington part of the bridge from the rest area
What the person didn't tell me was the rest area was called the "Dismal Nitch".  Certainly an odd name for a rest area! The name rang a bell for me but I couldn't figure out why it sounded familiar, until we started reading the historical markers along the river.
 
For those true historical buffs in the family, you already know but for the rest of you, here is your history lesson.  Dismal Nitch was named that by Lewis and Clark who got caught here in a terrible storm in the November of 1804 in the quest for a overland route from the east to the west coast of the American continent.  The storm raged for several days and left them wet, cold, and without food.  It was only after the storm died down that they were able to travel the remaining distance and actually see the Pacific Ocean. 
 
About 3 years ago I had read some histories of the area including one about this famous expedition.  I was excited to see some of these spots I had learned so Gary and I decided to spend some time exploring the most south-western area of Washington and see some of these spots.
 
Our next stop was Station Camp where they set up camp after leaving Dismal Nitch.
 
It later became known as Middle Village and existed as a fishing and canning village for a long time.  They still hold a monthly Sunday service in a restored church at this site.

Wild flowers were in bloom everywhere
in Washington and Oregon
After leaving Middle Village we headed up the coast to one section of the Lewis and Clark National and State parks.  We first headed to the North Head Lighthouse and then to the Cape Disappointment Lighthouse plus stopping at a Lewis and Clark visitor center which had lots of displays and a movie about their trip across the country.


Add caption
our "selfie"

During our hike to the North Head Lighthouse, we got to see a helicopter hovering in the air right off the path.  The park ranger said that they come almost every day to practice dropping and retrieving people from the beach and surf.  This was our first true look at the Pacific Ocean on this trip.
The North Head Lighthouse
An interesting fact about lighthouses.  On the west coast lighthouses themselves are really not that tall.  They are able to be located on high pieces of ground which then allows their light to shine about 20 miles out to sea.  On the east coast there are less high spots so lighthouses there are much taller.
We learned a lot about the lights and how the lighthouses worked.  It was very interested and I would suggest you google lighthouses.



Gary took this of me looking down through the stair well inside the lighthouse.
We then headed south and east to this light house.  Cape Disappointment is the furthest spot west that the Lewis and Clark party traveled.  The guide told us that a lighthouse was built here first but then it was realized that it couldn't be seen from those ships coming from the north so then the North Head Lighthouse was built to solve that problem.
It was a bit more of a hike than we expected, but it was enjoyable and very beautiful.

As we walked out of the Lewis and Clark visitor's center we came upon these "batteries" left over from WII.  Up and down the coast there were built and manned to watch for the Japanese navy after Pearl Harbor.  I had seen a picture of me taken in a doorway when I was about 11 or so, so I posed myself in a similar way.  I don't think this is the same place where that picture was taken but I do think that we visited this area when I was growing up.  I will have to check my mom's journals.
One place I do remember from a summer visit was Ft. Clatsop and so once we got started on this historical day, I wanted to take Gary there as well.
 
 
So we headed back across the bridge that had started this adventure and headed to Ft. Clatsop. 
 
I have to say that it wasn't as big as I remembered it as a child.  In fact, it didn't really seem familiar at all although much of the restorations were done prior to the mid-1960s so it must be somewhat the same as it was then.  Funny how memories are!  My memory of the visit was that it was a very hot day and I think we went with our cousins.  I remember being impressed that this was a spot where "history" had happened.  I guess I was old enough to finally make that connection between things I had learned at school to actual locations.  I have been to many historical locations now in my life and there is something about these spots which touches me.  I guess I am just a history geek and I "got it" from my parents and these trips when I was a child.
 
 
These signs are definitely new.  Up and down the coast you see signs like this or other related ones.  They have signs posted about Tsunami litter which I guessed appear on the coast for a few years after the Japanese earthquakes.


The fort itself where Lewis and Clark and company settled for the winter before returning back east.

 More beautiful forests..........
Heading down the famous Highway 101 we decided it was time to actually stop and see the ocean up close and personal.  This was taken from a viewing area at Ecola State Park toward Cannon Beach and then we wandered down a narrow road to Indian Beach.
I have a little sign in my bedroom which reads "The ocean fills my soul."  It is so true.  Something about the sounds and sights of the ocean which makes me happy.  I told Gary that I need to see the ocean every three years or so and we have been fairly lucky to be able to do that most of our lives.


Once we finished the beach visit, I decided that I wanted to spend the night in Lincoln City, OR.  I wanted somewhere on the beach but not the same area where we were staying the weekend.  Lincoln City was one area I remembered going as a child and I knew that I had pictures of my mom and dad's last trip there.  Gary was hoping to avoid traveling the narrow roads during the dark because of deer and other animals but we didn't quite make it before dark.  But we found a beautiful hotel in Lincoln which included a fireplace which was a perfect way to end our first day of vacation. Whew, that was a lot for one day of vacation..................